Galleries

Golfers Holiday Gift Guide

A love of golf lends itself to a wide array of holiday gift ideas. Of course, there are different types of golfers, which can make choosing just the right present even more challenging for¬†well meaning friends and family. DLG is proud to announce our custom curated…..

2017 Holiday Gift Guide 

With special picks for just about everyone special in your life

 

For your WEEKEND golf buddy: 

Friends Don’t Let Friends 3-Putt Magnet Koozie + Super Soft Unisex Tee ~ $30.¬†Some things really¬†just explain themselves. And this combo pokes a little fun, while being¬†truly AWESOME gear for just about any golfer. Did we mention the koozie can attach to golf carts, tailgates, and hundreds of¬†other useful objects?

 

Friends Tee

FOR POP (or even your honey):

The handmade Coordinates Ornament from PORT + OAK with option to add your actual handwriting on the back ~$30 – $45.¬†Commemorate a special trip you took, a favorite round of golf, or¬†maybe even your favorite ice cream joint¬†you two always went to back in the day. This one tugs at the heart strings. And it’s a gift they’ll cherish year after year.

For the guy or gal who’s always chasing¬†single digit:

The¬†Navigator Putting Aid ~ $49 .¬†It’s the quickest way to improve your golf and shoot lower scores. This thing has been SAM PuttLab tested. And the numbers are killer. Just check with all these guys, and these guys (and gals).

Kyle Thompson practices with the Navigator Putting Aid at the Web.com Tour Championship

Kyle Thompson, PGA Tour

For THE EARLY BIRD:

The PORT + OAK Dewsweeper Hand Poured Candle ~ $24. With the sweet and savory aroma of dew resting peacefully atop a freshly mown turf, the Dewsweeper Candle adds a fresh and relaxing zest to any space. The clean scent easily fits in with Mom, Nana, or even your boss. 



For MOM AND Daddio:

The handmade PORT + OAK¬†Latitude and Longitude Sign¬†~ $109 – $129.¬†This one is sure to turn some heads. Show ’em¬†you love ’em¬†by custom-routing your favorite track you’ve played together,¬†vacation destination, or a fond memory you’ve shared over the years. It’s an awesome conversation piece, but even better- it’s an undeniably thoughtful gift.¬†




For the  links LOVER: 

The Home is where the Par is‚ĄĘ Door Mat¬†is the perfect greeting for when your friendly neighborhood parseeker¬†makes their¬†way back home. The simple design easily blends with any style of decor. And the clever catchphrase is sure to make them smile. ¬†~$32

DLG Performance Center | Putting Drill Series | Quarter Drill

Are you struggling with distance control with your putting? You might want to look to your tempo. Give the quarter drill a shot, and soon you’ll be rolling putts like a tour pro!

DLG Performance Center | Putting Drill Series | Prayer Drill

What’s the No. 1 difference between the putting stroke of a PGA Tour player and the putting stroke of an amateur golfer? Watch carefully how the hands are placed on the club in this drill below and you’ll be on your way to rolling the rock like never before!

DLG Performance Center | Putting Drill Series: Ladder Drill

Jordan Spieth uses this unique drill religiously with coach, Cameron McCormick. If you need to work on distance control with your putting, look no further! This putting drill takes the cake.

DLG Performance Center | Putting Drill Series: Yardstick Drill

Hi there, DLG Fam!

Check out the video below for one of our ALL TIME FAVORITE putting drills to nail down your start lines and start make more putts than ever before. 

Our Favorite Golf Gambling Games To Play With Your Buddies

There’s nothing more invigorating than throwing it all on the line and coming up big. There are certainly hundreds of variations to the “money game” in golf, which can make for a confusing (and sometimes frustrating!) start to your round. FEAR NOT!¬†With this simple guide, you’ll stand on the tee with confidence knowing exactly what you’re getting into. So maybe the next time you tee it up, you can call the shots and let those other peons bask in your gamut of¬†golf gambling know-how!

We have some N.C. State grads in the house, so it’s no surprise our first pick is WOLF.¬†

1. Wolf

Wolf is won or lost in self-confidence. ¬†If you’re a great player who knows you can hit all the shots, but never happens to score well when you need to, this is an AWESOME game to help develop those skills under the gun. The basic premise is here:¬†

  • Order of play is decided on the first hole with the classic golf “tee spin.” This order rotates through the whole round.
  • The player who tees off first is the “wolf.”
  • ¬†The wolf, after watching everyone else’s tee shots, has to decide whether or not they’ll “go it alone,” (Lone Wolf) or pick a partner for a 2v2 match on that hole. This can be anyone in the foursome. If he or she decides to go it alone AFTER everyone’s tee shot, the bet is worth double.¬†(Handicaps can and should be used in the instance that all players are not of equal playing ability)¬†¬†*If he or she decides to partner up, they must select their partner immediately after all tee shots are hit.¬†
  • Low net 1-ball score wins the hole.

EXAMPLE: If the lone wolf makes a four, and nobody else in the foursome scored better, the wolf wins double the bet from each of the three players. The easiest way is to keep “dots” on your scorecard next to your score on each hole.¬†

*If each “dot” or bet is worth $1, the wolf would win a total of $6 on that hole in this case.

If the wolf LOSES the hole (someone else in the foursome made a three), the wolf would pay out $2 to each of the three players (Again, a total of $6) 

  • If the wolf is feeling particularly hungry, he or she can declare themselves the “Blind¬†Wolf” BEFORE ANYONE tees off. This means that no matter the shape of anyone’s drive (including his or her own!), the wolf has already decided to go it alone. This is the confident wolf — the wolf with the biggest appetite and perhaps even the biggest ego. We all know that person in our foursome¬†ūüėČ! If the wolf wins, he earns triple the bet. If he loses, he pays out triple the bet.¬†

    Credit: Giphy

HOW DO YOU KNOW IF YOU’RE THE WOLF OR NOT?¬†That’s easy.

The Wolf order is decided by the first hole tee spin, and first hole order. If player A is the wolf on hole 1…

Player B on hole 2

Player C on hole 3

Player D on hole four… etc. etc.¬†

This leaves two holes remaining at the end you say! Yes it does. Typically, he or she who is in last place after hole 16 is given the honors on hole 17 to become the wolf on the remaining holes. But, your foursome is free to decide the fate.

Who will be wolf meat next time YOU tee it up? 

2. Robin Hood 

This is our variation on the classic “Battle Golf” or “Pick up Sticks.” It’s a team game, so pick your partner wisely. If there are unfair playing abilities, use handicaps. It has a few twists that we like to use to keep things¬†very¬†interesting.¬†*Make sure you take carts for this one.¬†

  • The game is¬†typically played in standard match play, but CAN be broken into three bets: front, back, overall.¬†
  • When a team LOSES¬†a hole, they get the luxury of stealing from the rich and removing a club from each of their opponents’ bags. The losing team goes 1 down on the match.¬†
  • If at any point during the round, a player recovers from the woods or from a hazard and makes par (or better) he or she gets to steal a club back. In addition, if any player makes a net birdie, they get a club back. Net Eagle? Two clubs back.¬†
  • If at any point during the round, a leading team is DORMIE on the match (3 up with 3 to play), they better be good with¬†every arrow in the quiver. That’s because the team that is down gets to steal EVERY CLUB IN THEIR¬†BAG (BUT ONE) until the match is over.¬†ūüėĪ

 

Credit: Cineramble.com

3. Vegas

This one can get out of hand quickly. And we like out of hand. 

  • A 2v2 team game with point values assigned to combined score¬†
  • If player A+B are on a team, and player A makes a four and player B makes a five, their score is 45. Player C and D (on the same team) make a five and seven, respectively. Their score is 57. Team AB would be leading by 12 points¬†
  • The points can be any monetary value you choose. High roller? $1 / point. Average golfer with a wife, maybe kids, kids college tuition to pay…heck, your own college tuition to pay!!!? ¬†Try a dime per point.¬†
  • The only time the low score doesn’t precede the high score is when a player makes a 10 or more. Let say you make a 10 and your partner makes a four. Your score isn’t 410, it’s 104.¬†
  • Low score wins at the end of the round. Anything near 800 will pretty much take the cake.¬†

Credit: TravelChannel.com

We hope you’ve enjoyed reading along and picked up an idea or two for your next gambling game.¬†Now go fatten your wallets, DLG Fam!!!

How to DIY A Stone-Bordered Backyard Putting Green (on the CHEAP!) ūüėĪ

Material List/Cost:
  • Putting Green – $1000 (less without the plastic panels)
  • Fringe Turf – $500¬†
  • Landscape spikes and U-Staples – $27
  • Landscape Fabric – $50
  • 3/4″ Rock – $40¬†
  • Screening Rock – $40

Total – $1657

Optional add-ons:
  • Stone Pavers, Caps + Construction Adhesive ~ $318¬†(Still under 2k!)
  • Rental Equipment ~ $250

If you’ve ever requested¬†a quote from a company¬†to build a backyard putting green, you’re probably shaking your head at us. Especially because most golf putting green estimates¬†list the materials at 3-4k alone! The truth is, everything is negotiable. Even materials. And when you DIY, you not only save a bunch of cheddar, but you also have the satisfaction of building it yourself!

The few quotes WE received to build a backyard putting green for the business were over $6,000, not including any type of landscaping or stone surround. We were shaking OUR heads saying NO WAY! So, taking our can-do attitude with us, we set out to build one ourselves. And we built it on a budget of both time AND money. If you’re sitting here thinking there’s no possible way I could do this, we’d urge you to read on. It’s deceptively easy, even for a first time¬†DIYer. And in no time at all, you’ll be able to¬†practice your putting like never before!

Below, we’ve laid out the steps we took (*along with some AWESOME insider tips) from ground breaking to holing the first downhill left to right 14-footer. And with a little grit, lots of sweat, and a passion for golf, you too can put your very own putting green in your backyard. And now you can get it done for less than that end-of-year bonus check! Your spouse will thank us later. Maybe….

STEP 1: Site Selection and Sketch Layout

Decide where you’d like for your green to be, and how much space to devote to it. We’re currently rehabbing the entire backyard (more DIY fun!), and wanted the putting green to be pretty central to all the action. Ultimately, the flatter the terrain to start, the easier it will be to level it to slope. ¬†Unfortunately, the spot that made the most sense for us had over a 5% slope to it. So that meant moving lots of dirt. The max slope you’re looking for is about 1-2% for drainage. ¬†Want to calculate how much slope you have in your spot? ¬†Check out this awesome guide from SFGate.

We then rough-sketched our layout against our other landscaping in the backyard (which was pretty minimal), and made sure it made sense.  We then got carried away and added plans for a fireplace / TV, patio, and firepit/sitting area. We can dream too!

STEP 2: Purchase putting green and fringe turf

We purchased the putting green from a local manufacturer a few years back for about $1000. It was an indoor model with paneling, but found out it was rated for outdoor use as well. SCORE! *Insider tip: ask if they have any floor samples and offer to pay¬†cash and pick it up yourself. By negotiating this way, we received over $1000 off the asking price.¬†In the end, the turf is the most expensive part of the project, but is still a very negotiable component. We chose a putting green that came with plastic base panels. You can build a backyard putting green WITH or WITHOUT plastic base panels. If you build it without, you will save even more money¬†on the putting green itself,¬†but you must add a 3″ layer of screening rock on top of the base stone (~$20-$30) if you go this route. You must also ensure that it is COMPLETELY level. Any¬†small bumps will be¬†visible in the putting green turf after the install.¬†

We purchased the fringe turf from Synthetic Grass Warehouse.  We found this to be the best quality turf with very good pricing. They were unbelievably helpful, accommodating and informativeРask for Sara and tell her we referred you! 

STEP 3: Surface Prep

PLEASE DON’T SKIP THIS STEP!¬†If you’ve got a full bed of grass you’re planning on replacing with the green, renting a sod cutter makes this process go a lot faster¬†(~$60 for 4 hours at the Home Depot)¬†than digging it out by hand. Because we were on a budget, we opted to¬†dig by hand. Blisters were abundant. Our green is¬†14′ x 8′ and we planned for about 20″ of fringe around the perimeter, underneath of which would be a stone retaining wall with¬†caps to give the green a nice structure. Typically, you’ll want to extend your fringe about two feet around around the green. This gave us a total surface area of roughly 216 sq.ft. (18’X12′) to prep. We¬†made the early mistake of prepping only the surface area for the green itself and not the fringe (as you’ll see later in the post). This made the project take a bit longer than it should have.

You’ll want to completely remove anything green from your putting green surface area. *Insider tip:¬†spray¬†the area with a weed killer,¬†wait about a week to see if anything new pops up, and spray it again.¬†

During the excavation, continuously measure for level as you tamp the surface. I used a simple two-foot long hand-level along the way. Having a 4′ or 5′ level would have been nice, but not necessary. We were forced to add massive amounts of fill dirt to the west end of the green (we mentioned our original 5% slope earlier didn’t we?) to achieve the 1% slope for drainage.¬†

 

STEP 4: Rock Base – 6″ min

We made the mistake of buying the first 10 or so of these by the bag at Home Depot. If you visit your local rock / mulch yard, you can get a whole ton of 3/4″ base layer rock for about $40 bucks. (That’s $2000 lbs) If we would have purchased the whole lot from Home Depot, it would have cost $160! This rock creates the base layer and¬†helps to compact the soil beneath it. Add layers of 2″ at a time, and tamp in between. You can also rent a plate compacter to do this job for you. Looking back, it¬†may have been worth the few extra bucks to rent some power tools!

Make sure to have a¬†fully-tamped minimum 6″ layer of rock as your base order to provide a solid foundation for your putting green. Don’t skimp on this! Its crucial to have a solid footing to prevent washout!!!

Make sure to wet the surface after tamping and leveling to allow for greater compaction and settling.

STEP 5: Size Check and dig the paver track

We assembled the putting green to get a feel for the sizing and perimeter requirements. 

When we excavated the area for the putting green, we didn’t factor in the fringe area. (When we began the dig, we never planned on having a fringe/stone surround.) But we learned quickly that the slope in the yard made it unavoidable, and it certainly gives the green quite a professional look (for not much extra money. ~$300 total)¬†So, we had to measure and string out each side, mark, and dig out the perimeter in order to allow room for the pavers (and fringe).

The pavers needed a min base of 4″ gravel or stone (we used¬†the same stone from before). So, the dig had to dive 4″ further than the level point¬†with the putting green.¬†

We used the level quite a bit during this phase. Not only did the block have to be level as it sat in the ground, but once the paver cap is on top of the retaining wall block, it too had to be level with the putting green (or sitting slightly below it for drainage, which you will see in a bit).

STEP 6: Stone Perimeter Install

We found the “section by section” method to work best. The dig was followed by a tamping of soil, then a 4″ pour of gravel, another hard tamping down, wetting, then placing the first stone block. We would then level the block longways. *Insider tip: if you’re off by a bit, use a rubber mallet to bang on one side and level it as needed. ¬†We¬†would then place a stone cap on top of the wall block, and run the level from the stone cap to the putting green to make sure there was a slight upslope¬†(approx 1%). This is to ensure proper drainage in the perimeter of the green and fringe area.¬†

 

Notice the above and below photos. We wanted to make sure the slope of the block matched the slope of the putting green. It was our aim to achieve a 1% slope on this putting green. Use the level to verify the same amount of “bubble” rests slightly over the line on the paver block AND the putting green itself. ¬† Working our way around the green, we¬†picked up on some time saving techniques such as digging and tamping many feet at a time in preparation of the stone base.¬† Many late evenings were spent on the project and when the bugs came out, it would’ve been unbearable without those citronella tiki torches!

STEP 7: Adhere the Stone Caps

We used outdoor construction adhesive (3 bottles worth @ $6 each~ $18) to adhere the stone caps to the paver blocks. Make sure the area is clean and dry, and then use an “S” or zigzag pattern when you lay the adhesive to cover the most surface area.¬†
Below, you can see that the stone caps sit a bit below the surface of the green. This was done for two reasons: 

1. The putting green we used had a raised lip that needed to be cut with a jigsaw before the fringe came in. (This was because it was an indoor green originally) This raised edge added about 1/2″ to the surface height of the green.¬†

2. You want to allow the green and fringe to drain away from the center, so leaving a slight downslope from the putting green to the top of the paver cap is a must. 

Below, the semi-finished stone wall. We had to cut one paver cap on the wet saw to fit snugly around the perimeter.  

STEP 8: Cut the lip

We had to cut the lip from the panels with a jigsaw to allow the fringe to work seamlessly with the putting green. One last hard hand-tamp and wetting, and we’re ready for the geo-barrier.¬†

STEP 9: GEO-BARRIER

To keep the weeds out (and provide a nice smooth layer for the panels), a geo-barrier (weed barrier) goes down next. Easy to cut and install with a few landscape spikes. ($20)

STEP 10: Stone Backfill for drainage and stability

Retaining walls¬†need at least a 6″ wide layer of stone compacted directly against the border (from base to top) to ensure proper drainage and eliminate shifting in wet conditions.¬†We used just about 1 ton of ¬†this 3/4″ rock all together on this project ($40)

Layer by layer, we added the gravel and backfill dirt to the edge of the green, stopping 2-3″ shy of the top threshold. This 2-3″ would be reserved for the final layer of screening (leveling) rock.¬†Filling, leveling, and hand-tamping each layer (roughly 5x around the perimeter) in 100 degree heat wasn’t easy. Glad to have the extra help.¬†

STEP 11: Screening Rock

*Insider Tip: purchase from the local rock / mulch yard.¬†You can get a ton for about $40 just like the other 3/4″ stone. For our fringe area of ~ 100 sq. ft., we used a little less than¬†1 ton (2000 lbs) of screening rock at a depth of 2-3″.¬†Screening rock provides a very flat and smooth surface for the fringe turf to rest on. (This is the same rock you would use as the “panel” layer if your putting green doesn’t have the black plastic panels).¬†

This process took a few hours with two people working full force. We did about 1″ per hour around the green here.¬†Insider tip: in between each layer, wet and tamp. This gives good compaction for housing your landscape spikes later on. If you try to tamp it all at the end, its¬†tough to get to the compaction you need, and your landscape spikes (for the fringe turf) may not hold properly. In addition, the surface could dent or deform when people walk across it.¬† One final wetting before the final cut of landscape fabric goes down.¬†

STEP 12: Final Landscape Fabric

To keep the fringe turf neat and to provide a final layer of protection against weeds on our putting green fringe area, we installed one more cut of landscape fabric ($20) around the perimeter and secured it with stakes. *Insider tip: use non galvanized or uncoated stakes to allow for rust. That sounds counter-intuitive. However, when the stake rusts, it expands and tightens in its position.

STEP 13: Install Fringe Turf 

This was the most difficult part to plan. We’d never installed artificial turf before, and did a BUNCH of research on best practices. Synthetic Grass Warehouse has some great videos on turf install, but we’ll give a quick snapshot of our best practices here:

  1. Lay the whole piece of turf out and decide which direction you’d like for the grain to run.
  2. Plan your cuts wisely. We chose to cut our longest sections from the turf FIRST¬†to maximize the amount we’d have leftover to “play with” for the short sides should we mess something up. Next time,¬†we’d cut the¬†four “corners” to allow for easier seaming of the turf together. *Insider Tip: remember, always OVER order the sq footage of your turf by 10-15%. ¬†After we made our initial four cuts (two on the long sides and two on the short sides, we had very odd corner shapes to fit the turf into, cut, and seam. It turned out great, but would have been easier to follow the “four corner” method described above.¬†
  3. When cutting, make sure to use a very sharp razor blade. And switch this razor blade after every section. *Insider Tip: ALWAYS cut from the back side of the turf! 
  4. If you’re installing the turf around a putting green that has a stone border like ours, make sure to add a minimum of 1/2″ to your measurement for the side resting against the stone border before cutting. This is to allow “stuffing” or hiding of the cut edge along the exterior perimeter.¬†
  5. Use kneepads. I didn’t, and felt like my knees were going to fall out the next day. ¬†
  6. Go SLOWLY and cut LONG (over) rather than short (under). It’s always better to have a little extra that you can trim later¬†rather than cutting it short and ruining a whole slab of turf!
  7. *INSIDER TIP: BUY NON GALVANIZED (UN-COATED) 6″ LANDSCAPE SPIKES TO SECURE THE TURF to the base. ($.18 ea and we used about 150) This non-galvanized finish allows the spikes to rust, which gives a stronger hold in the rock base. Place the spikes every 6″ along the edge of your turf.¬†

¬†Heres a quick snapshot of the “tucking” technique we described earlier. Always tuck first, THEN drive your landscape spike about 1″ from the edge down into the rock base.After tucking the turf, separate the fibers and place your landscape spike roughly 1″ from the stone border. *Insider tip: spread the turf out around the spike with your fingers to reduce the amount of “trapping” the spike causes on the fibers of the grass. Nail it almost all the way in. Repeat this process until the entire piece of turf you’re working on is secured. Stretch it, work out any “bubbles,” then finish off all the nails completely.

Below is a photo of the seaming clip (provided by SGW) being driven into the turf. These clips are placed every 6″ along any seam and driven down all the way into the rock base. Again, make sure to spread the turf out from under the clip before driving all the way down in order to limit the amount of fiber trapping. This helps your seams look professional (unnoticeable).¬†

STEP 14: Apply Infill 

Infill adds some weight to the turf (keeping it in place), as well as helps to lift the grass fibers and resist wear from foot traffic. The turf we purchased called for 1-2 lbs / sq ft of premium infill. Our putting green required 4 bags @ $15 ea, so $60 total. SGW provided the sand and shipped it along with the turf. *Insider tip:¬†Offer to pick up the turf / sand shipment from the freight carrier’s closest distribution center. This saved over $100 in freight fees!¬†

We filled a jug and slowly worked our way around the green. After the sand is down, take a push broom and work it into the turf. Go against the grain to help stand the blades up and smooth the sand into the backing. You can also rent a “powerbroom” for this step, but we found that to be unnecessary.¬†

STEP 15: Make your first putt, and enjoy!

And just like that, viola! Your homemade DIY backyard putting green is complete and you’re ready to practice your putting. Go strap on the Navigator Putting Aid¬†and make more putts!

We’re off to stain that horrible¬†fence, add some landscaping, and shoot our very first Dirty Larry Golf putting performance video! Stay tuned, DLG Fam!

-DLG

 

 

Six Little Known Facts About Augusta National

Cows once ruled the hallowed grounds.

Photo: Getty, Augusta National

During WWII, few of AGNC’s 128 members had booking a tee time too high up on the ole’ priority list. Having donated prior proceeds to the war, the leadership determined that¬†the club would either have to reduce operations or disband entirely.¬†Bobby Jones, realizing the potential for the unused acreage, reasoned that the 200 cattle would provide meat for the local area AND assist with golf course maintenance by keeping grass at manageable levels. Win-win, right? Unfortunately, as the bermuda strains went dormant, the cows turned to the beloved azalea bushes for feed. Oh, and when the cattle had overstayed their welcome? Turkeys. 1,423 of them. Members contributed $100 a piece in return for a fresh Christmas bird. And Augusta National lived on.

Ben Crenshaw met the ghost of Masters past mid-round.

Photo: Augusta.com

Follow along closely with us on this one. During the final round of the 1954 Masters, amateur Billy Joe Patton held the lead on the back nine. He opted to go for the green in two on both the 13th and the 15th. Sadly, both of those shots met cringeworthy fatal splashes, resulting in a third place finish.

Fast forward 30 years to Crenshaw’s Sunday round, standing on the 13th with a three-stroke lead. Just as Ben contemplated going for the green in two, he glanced across the gallery to see none other than Patton among the fans. The crucial reminder led to Crenshaw’s decision to lay up, leading to his first major victory.

Only thing is… Crenshaw learned that Billy Joe Patton wasn’t in attendance that day.

The Masters was sort of a last resort for Augusta National.
These days it sounds like pure blasphemy to reject anything associated with this sacred tournament. But believe it or not, Bobby Jones originally had his eye on hosting the U.S. Open (or a second choice U.S. Amateur) at AGNC. The USGA, however, rejected the notion of moving down south. In turn, the founders created their own tournament in hopes of attracting new members. Needless to say, it worked. One thousandfold.

 

Photo: Augusta.com

Those pimento cheese wrappers aren’t just green to match the jackets.
While the green Masters plastic wrap sure does make the patrons feel festive, the clever folks at Augusta National may have thought just a bit further than that. It’s said that the wrapper color was chosen to prevent stray baggies from ruining the beauty of those incredible fairways and greens on the broadcast. Now, to be fair, the crew is stellar. And I’d doubt they’d leave any trash floating around for more than an inhale and an exhale. But Augusta National takes no chances.

Photo: Dave Nastalski

The grounds are golden… literally.

Photo: Fred Vuich

Anyone who’s set foot on this sacred course knows just how magical it feels. But it’s more than just a feeling.

Believe it or not, there’s a natural spring running between the 13th and 14th fairways that spouts gold dust when it rains. It doesn’t even sound real, but does any of Augusta National?

Tour caddies weren’t always a thing.
These days, pros and their caddies are attached at the hip. Some loopers are even more famous than players. But prior to 1982, personal caddies were prohibited. That means Nicklaus and Palmer played some of the most important rounds of their lives with men they didn’t really know by their sides.

Photo: Shaun Best/Reuters